Saturday, September 1, 2007

Indonesian food

In general, Indonesian food is only moderately spicy - most local cuisines use varieties of ginger, garlic and fresh turmeric for heat and flavor rather than cayenne or chilis. However, Javanese usually serve sambal, a spicy chili relish on the side, and Padang food from Sumatra, who many consider the finest food in Indonesia, specialize in very spicy food that can clear your sinuses in a second.
The unofficial national dishes are usually not spicy: nasi goreng (fried rice) and mie goreng (fried noodles). Gado-gado (mixed vegetables) is also a reliable dish for the faint of stomach, consisting of lightly boiled vegetables, potato and egg served with a mildly spicy peanut dipping sauce. Satay (skewers of marinated and grilled chicken or goat meat) is usually also served with a spicy peanut sauce, but try it with kecap manis (sweet soy sauce) for a delicious change. Nasi campur (mixed rice) is kind of like pot luck, and is usually a good bet - it consists of a bowl of rice and small portions of that day's specials, which always include a mixture of meat and vegetable dishes. Try the ayam goreng (Javanese-style fried chicken) and ayam bakar (barbecued chicken, marinated in a delicious sweetened soy sauce). Top hotels and restuaruants will serve Rijstafel, a large selection of Indonesia's finest foods including spicy meats, satay, fish, vegetables and slivered coconuts from a wide buffet selection on a bed of rice.
Indonesians love soup (soto) of all kinds, and many areas have their own special varieties. Soto Jakarta or soto Betawai (so-named for the areas where they're served) are extremely fragrant soups made with herbs, coconut milk and meats. Ask for them with chicken - otherwise, they're usually made with organ meats. Soto ayam (chicken soup) is the Indonesian variation on this classic dish and is found everywhere (some claim it's a great cure for traveller's stomach).
Padang food, which you can find all around the country, may not be for every traveller, given its spiciness. But it has the advantage of being easy to order: Padang restaurants display all their offerings (cooked fresh in the morning and served, like much Indonesian food, at room temperature) in the window, neatly stacked in pyramids of white dishes, so what you see is what you get. When you enter the restaurant, a waiter will begin bringing over dishes with small portions of that day's offerings. You're not expected to eat everything - this is the menu!